If you have ever queued for an hour to see a famous landmark in August, sweltering in the heat and paying top prices for a cramped hotel room, you will understand why I have become such a fan of shoulder season. These are the weeks either side of the busy summer period, and for city breaks in particular, they are often the sweet spot for both couples and solo travellers.
What shoulder season actually means
Shoulder season sits between a destination's peak and low seasons. For much of Europe, that usually means spring, from around April to early June, and autumn, from September into October. The exact timing depends on where you are going. A Mediterranean city may still feel like summer in October, while somewhere further north will already be wrapping up for winter.
The idea is simple: the weather is usually still pleasant, the school holidays are over, and demand for flights and hotels tends to drop. You get much of what makes a destination appealing, with fewer of the downsides.
The benefits of travelling outside the peak
The biggest difference I notice is the crowds. Popular museums, viewpoints and old towns are far more enjoyable when you can actually stop and look around. Restaurants are easier to get into without booking weeks ahead, and you are more likely to get a table by the window rather than one squeezed by the kitchen door.
Prices often follow demand, so accommodation and flights can be better value than in July and August, although this varies a lot by destination and by events taking place at the time. It is always worth comparing a few different weeks before you commit. Milder temperatures are a bonus too. Walking all day around a city like Paris is much more pleasant when it is not baking hot.
Things to watch out for
Shoulder season is not perfect. The weather is less predictable, so you may get a run of sunny days or a week of drizzle. Some seasonal attractions, boat trips and beach facilities reduce their hours or close entirely once the summer ends, so check opening times before building your plans around them.
It is also worth looking out for big events. A trade fair, festival or major sports fixture can fill a city's hotels even in a supposedly quiet month, so a quick search for what is on during your dates can save you a nasty surprise at booking time.
Shoulder season for couples and solo travellers
For couples, an autumn city break has a lovely, unhurried feel. Long lunches, early evening walks as the light turns golden, and cosy restaurants once it gets chilly. If you are planning an anniversary or a romantic weekend, take a look at my couples holidays page for more ideas.
For solo travellers, quieter streets and calmer hostels and hotels make it easier to settle in, meet people and explore at your own pace. Staff often have more time to chat and give local tips when they are not rushed off their feet. If you like travelling light and responsibly, my guide to sustainable solo travel fits nicely with an off-peak trip.
Packing for changeable weather
The key to packing for shoulder season is layers. A light waterproof jacket, a warm jumper or fleece, and a mix of short and long sleeves will cover most situations. Comfortable shoes that cope with rain are essential, and a compact umbrella is worth the space in your bag. Mornings and evenings can feel very different from the middle of the day, so being able to add or remove a layer makes a long day of sightseeing much more comfortable.
If you have only ever travelled in the height of summer, try booking your next city break a few weeks earlier or later than usual. You might find you enjoy the place more when it is a little quieter.